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Monasteries of Oltenia
he heart of Wallachia, spread on the hills south of the Carpathians, is traditionally called Oltenia, because it lies on the river Olt. Since the 14th century, it has been the center of this southern Romanian kingdom. No wonder that Oltenia was always a place of major importance, politically, as well as spiritually. Across the centuries, Wallachian kings, as well as local rulers, used this beautiful natural setup to build churches and establish monasteries. They did this in moments of great importance for the country, usually to thank God for an important military victory or to celebrate a prosperous period. This way, Oltenia became also an important cultural center, mainly because of the books printed in most of these monasteries, in the Middle Ages. Also, they were a spiritual refuge for the Romanian people during the murky times when Wallachia had to fight for its autonomy against the powerful Ottoman Empire.
he Monasteries of Oltenia are still standing, as beautiful as ever. You can take a trip to these architectural jewels of the south, starting from the city of Rimnicu Vilcea (some 150 km northwest of Bucharest).
ollowing the road across the mountains that leads to Sibiu, not far from Rimnicu Vilcea you will find the Monastery at Cozia. This place has a great spiritual significance for the Romanians, as the founder is one of the brightest figures of our history. Mircea "The Wise" ruled Wallachia in the 14th century and was the first to defeat the mighty Turks, relieving the country from the danger of foreign occupation. Today he is regarded as a hero. The monastery was built in 1388 in the Byzantine style. After you've admired the interior frescoes painted in 1707, take a walk around the age-old walls. The history comes alive as you stop on the bank of the river Olt, where the water caresses the wall of the monastery, covered in moss.
cross the road from the monastery itself, a marvelous little church greets the visitor. This perfectly proportioned chapel was built in 1542, and the vivid colors of the frescoes tell us that it has not been used very much for prayer.
est of Rimnicu Vilcea, on the hills covered with oak forests, there is a series of delicate, white churches, all of which are part of monasteries. Stop for a while at Govora. Time loses its meaning once you step inside the clean, silent yard, packed with hundreds of flowers. This small church, built in 1491 and taken care of by a handful of monks, seems the ideal place to spend an hour in philosophy.
ear by, the monastery of Dintr-un Lemn has a nice story to it. The name means "made of a single tree". The present church was built in 1635, then enlarged in 1684, in the time of a famous family of Walachian rulers, the Cantacuzinos. The legend says that this place was sacred and a long time before the new church was built, there was a small chapel here, made entirely from the timber of just one oak. If you find this hard to believe, wait till you see the magnificent oaks, at least 300 years old, that still guard the monastery.
ut the largest and architecturally the purest and most beautiful of all Oltenian monasteries is still farther to the west. It is called Horezu and it's the creation of the master builders of king Constantin Brancoveanu in 1694. Brancoveanu is a brilliant figure of the wallachian history, especially because of his encyclopedic personality. He was a man of great culture and knowledge and during his rule the country had an unprecedented development of the arts and crafts. Many of the most impressive buildings in the south were made in Brancoveanu's time, and the carved stone decorations that are specific to that time now bear his name. At the monastery of Horezu the gorgeous stone carved leaves and flowers that delicately adorn the columns contrast well with the immaculate whiteness of the walls. As you walk along the alleys, you are conquered by a feeling of peace and freedom, and enchantment at the swan-like architecture of the church and its chapel.
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